Videos on Youtube.com
I think this product is one of the best aluminum fabrication rods I've ever seen. I used to run a small engine repair business.|
A friend of mine came in one day with an engine case off his kid's 4 wheeler. The kid had decided to change the oil himself and got a little confused as to which way was out on the drain plug. He pulled the threads completely out.
I drilled the drain plug hole oversize, closed it up a bit with the DuraFix rod, ground it flat, drilled and tapped it. That was 2 years ago. It is much harder than the base material but it can be machined, ground or filed. It's much easier to tap or thread then the base material ....Rick
| Those Durafix aluminum brazing sticks really do work on ARs/M16's|
Just thought I would share this in case anyone with an AR ever needed metal repair. Those brazing durafix or whatever aluminum brazing sticks really do work. I thought I would just share Just a quick note to thank you.i repaired a very old and thin, aluminum evaporator coil in an old meat case. A replacement coil would have been $ 4500.00 . This was an old case with a very limited remaining life expectancy. I had tried a couple of common aluminum patches unsuccessfully, and after talking with you i decided to give it a shot. I must admit I was a bit skeptical, but my option was a very expensive coil for such an old case, plus a three week wait for manufacturing.
It worked pretty easily. A pair of small pinholes were quickly repaired and a much larger rub through hole, the real culprit, was just as easily repaired. I pressure tested at 125 psi. the max pressure rating when the coil was new. The repairs held for 12 hrs solidly so I re-installed and and returned It to service. The repairs have held for four years now, with zero leakage. I have repaired two more coils with Durafix since. None have leaked at the repair. The temperature variations that these coils must withstand, -30 to +130 degrees Fahrenheit, tax even the original factory connections.
Both I and my customers could not be happier with the results. So once again, Thank You and if you ever need a testimonial from a professional refrigeration mechanic, 30 plus years, do not hesitate to contact me. Dave M.
|It doesn't take much practice to get good at it........main thing though, it's critical that you clean the part to be welded with a stainless steel brush.......and move the heat away when you move the rod in on the work. Just follow the instructions. Again, good stuff, and tough as all getout. I call it a po man's heli-arc...... Love Jiggin|
I am a welder, amongst other things, and I can MIG and TIG weld aluminum, however I don't own a TIG and my MIG requires a new sleeve
and a different shielding gas to switch to aluminum (around $250). I am in the middle of a project where I am modifying some tool
boxes to fit the bed of my truck and I came across this stuff called "Dura-Fix". To my utter amazement it worked as good or better than the comercial!!!|
Here's the deal, these are simple welding rods (like the kind you torch-weld with) but they melt at only 750 degrees F. At that temp you can actually weld with a propane torch! I swear you can use these things blindfolded. You just heat the metal up and rub the stick around -no flux. I did my first tests with 1/8" aluminum and a MAPP gas torch and again, everything they said these would do, they did. I have also tried it on copper with great results (they work on all non-ferris metals).
So that's it, just a quick tip for anyone needing to stick stuff together who doesn't have 1500 bucks for a welder. The link is www.durafix.com...Damn good stuff and no flux either!....Fritz
|On my first aluminum frames I used epoxy putty to hold the frame together. Later I found on the internet a brazing rod called DURAFIX (http://durafix.com/index.html). Check out their youtube video. I'm not a welder and I did a great job the first time. This is the easiest way to build a frame. I only wish I had done this on my other 2 frames. If you don't want to try it, buy the rods and let a friend that can braze and let him show you how easy it is. Honestly...anyone can do it. I promise you that you will impress yourself....S. C.|
|We bent the alu (1/8" thick) before weld even began crying. Then we drilled and tapped it and tried to pull a 6-32 screw out, there were only 3 threads, it didnt budge so I slammed it out with a hammer... after this I refilled the hole as if nothing happened. THIS STUFF ROCKS!....C. R.|
Durafix is a zink alloy product that can be used to "weld" aluminum. I saw this product and purchased it. I got 60 sticks... I only used about 30
sticks. The sticks are approx 16" long and .125" thick. I had 240 rivets to do so I got on it as soon as I got off of work today. |
Here is a link that sold the product to me. Looks too good to be true but it really is easy to use and the tin can hole patch is the first thing I did as soon as I got the product and it really is that easy.
The product has a melting point of 732 degrees and as soon as the aluminum gets that hot the Durafix just melts on there and as long as you keep it above 732 you can move it around and work with it all you want.
First thing I did was take my motor off and flip the boat over. I had some help from 3 of my buddies and a fork lift but all in all it was pretty darn easy to do even though we did not even use the fork lift. The boat is heavy but I was surprised how smooth it went.
Next thing I did was prep the rivets. The manufacturer says to use nothing but stainless. [the kit comes with a ss brush] I looked flippin everywhere for a soft stainless brush wheel for the grinder or a drill and I could not find them anywhere so I went ahead and got a regular soft steel brush for my drill and went to town. The wheel I chose worked great and before I welded each rivet I used a stailess brush to re-clean each rivet.
The product does have a learning curve but in 3 rivets I caught on as well as the two other guys helping me. Pretty user friendly and supposively after cooling down, the druafix has better strength that the parent material. I was very impressed at the usability of the product as well as the easy of use. At first I was VERY sceptical but the product came through. I'm anxious to see how it holds up over time.
The 240 rivets and a couple holes took about 4 hours to do with 2 guys working non stop. Started with 3 but beer makes people lazy.Any questions, just ask. ....Bulldog
|You might want to try Durafix. I had never welded anything before and was actually able to make this stuff work! I repaired an umbrella-type gazebo roof (think big umbrella with long aluminum tubes as the spokes). In fact, the roof later collapsed under the weight of an ice storm, but the welds remained intact!....Steve|
|I've used it [Durafix] to fix oil pans with good results...Level0|
We punctured the bottom of a 12ft aluminum fishing boat one time; hauling wood
for our deck. Hey, it was a trailer, and it was available.|
Anyhoo, we went to get it heli-arc welded but the welder-guy used seen-on-tv DuraFix. Surprising how fast he did it, and the repair lasted for as long as we had the boat (several years). I have to say that I an NOT a believer in that TV stuff, but I gotta say, the stuff did work pretty good.
That makes 2 products that I believe in that are TV advertized; Flitz and DuraFix ....Al
I used this stuff to fill a crack in an aluminum gas tank and then ran the boat for another 8 years. Did I get lucky?
Don't know. But it's the same stuff you see the guys in the booths selling at BIG boat shows soildering beer cans together.|
It worked for me. Thats all I know..Jettywolf aluminumalloyboats.com
|I do that and have also sucessfully "brazed" aluminum props with Durafix rods and a propane torch....Dave|
Durafix used to repair a Sherman Tank:|
To repair the damage, I used DuraFix aluminium brazing rods. To use these, you first clean the part with a stainless steel wire brush, to remove the surface oxide layer. Then you heat the part with a butane or MAPP torch until the brazing rod melts when in contact with the part. You then continue to heat the part and build up the required amount of "filler" aluminium.....A. Harris
|Remove the rivets and fill in the hole with durafix rods. I've used the stuff and with some initial practice prepping the rivet hole area it'll be stronger than the aluminum itself. Great stuff!....SMJ|
|We have some (Durafix) at work. I've fixed transmission cases with it. It works just like they show, and when I was testing it out after welding an ear back onto a tranny case and hitting it with a hammer, I broke the case in a different spot than were I welded....Sharkey|
Durafix what a top product|
Guday fellow members and friends , this is for anyone that wants to make a aluminum mill or simply wants to weld dissimilar metals , but this product is only for non ferrous metals copper brass aluminum zinc galv and so on . Durafix is fantastic stuff to use , you can weld brass to copper or any mixture of non ferrous metals to each other , sorry no pics , do a search on youtube videos , you wont be sorry . Cheers....MM Australia
Article on using Durafix:|
....What I'm going to cover here is the use of a specifc type of brazing rod called DuraFix. I don't want to be a shill, but after trying some nickel-silver brazing rod, this was easier and produced better results and doesn't produce toxic fumes. With regular brazing materials, you'll also need to apply flux to the parts and heat up your components without burning the flux or melting the parts, yet still getting it hot enough for the brazing rod to flow. The first brazing rod I tried had a melting point around 1100 F if I recall correctly. Durafix melts at 732F..... Photo....Computer Overclocler
|The cage is made out of aluminium tube 6mm in diameter. After a good design, i saw and bend all the tube and glued them together. when the whole cage fitted perfectly, i took it apart and weld it with hardsolder. It is called DURAFIX....RC Competitor|
|If you properly prepare the material with the supplied stainless steel brush, there is a good adhesion. I can only say that I am satisfied so far. Even an old 3.5 cc motor with a torn threaded adapter for the exhaust was repaired beautifully. The Durafix filled the place where the piece was broken out of the engine block (cast aluminum). Then I filed it down after drilling and threading the new hole. Remarkably, the solder material really feels much harder than aluminum. Photo Photo Photo....RC Model Builder|
|I also tried my hand at a new product for welding aluminum, called Durafix. It really works well and I was able to sand it and polish the welds. The nice thing about the Durafix is the welding rods melt into aluminum, kinda like brazing at 735 degrees. So you can use propane or MAP gas with a benzomatic burner tip. Photo Photo Photo ....Mustang Enthusiast|
|Thanks for Durafix... This is nothing short of a miracle rod. I use many exotic metals for custom putters. Dura fix is the best rod I have ever found for joining unlike metals... The rod flows like solder and holds like steel... mills to a perfect finish... Dura fix saves me hours of work and I don't worry about the integrity of the weld... No fumes... no flux... low working temps make this the #1 rod in my shop....Cody Collins|
|Dear Randy Weeks, When I ordered welding rods from you, you said to let you know how I made out with project. Perfect I am happy to tell. Your product helped make a very stiff structure needed for professional instruments. Kind Regards, and thank you....Edgar Halvorson. www.aluminumelectricviolins.com|
I wish I could weld aluminum.....I used this product on a aluminum gas tank. And man did it
work great.....it held the gas tank "tear" closed for years. and was easy to work with.|
Capt Dave Sipler aluminumalloyboats.com
|I've used it to repair hull on my aluminum dinghy and also to build a rear pack rack for the 650....motorcyclist|
|I can tell you Durifix works! I repaired a out door grill that blew over and broke the cast aluminum lid into 2 pieces. I figured what the heck. Took lid off and used Durifix to braze it back together. Daughter has been using it for 3 years now and even with heating and cooling over and over it's still in one piece. It takes a little practice to get a pretty seam but even where it's not pretty it's still together. Important to clean area good and follow instructions. You will probably need map gas to heat area as the toon will suck up a lot of heat. Good luck with what ever you use....Ronald W|
|This stuff is great for any size hole. Watch the videos and there are even more on U-Tube. And, if you can solder, you can do this. Stronger than the aluminum itself and can be ground to look seamless. Price is right too....randyrandy|
|I have used it to repair the aluminum heads on my truck, brother in laws boat, and a few pieces for my planes. It is tougher then the muffler....RC Modeler|
|I have the Durafix and they work VERY well. I broke off a post on a aluminum head. I did a little grinding and used the rods with a Burnzomatic propane and oxygen setup. It has been holding for 3 years and 40,000 miles. I have used the rods to fix a bunch of stuff. Brush well with a stainless wire wheel and braze away. When the rods have cooled, they are harder then the cast aluminum. It drills and taps well too....Dru|
Q. Knocked the remote needle valve off of an Evoulution 46. It mounts on the back of the motor. It broke the bracket right where it bolts to the motor.
Is the any product that i can use to remount the broken off part back together? Will J B Weld hold I tried JB Weld on a carb i broke into and would not
hold. The part broke right where it mounts around bolt hole. Any help would be appreciated. I think the metal is cast but not sure....K. C.|
A. I have tried JBweld with the parts very clean and it didn't work. Second try I rilled very tiny holes and laced wire through both parts and J-B Welded, it held for about a year and then the JB let go and the wire was holding....B
A. There is a wonderful product called 'Durafix' that allows you to solder alluminium alloy with just the heat from a gas torch. This stuff is stronger than the alloy. Have a look at http://www.durafix.com/ Have used this on alloy and it works great. Have not needed to repair a motor with it....M Boland
|I wanted to try this durafix since I saw it advertised once, and believe it or not it does work and anybody can do it....R T K|
|Dang it, now you let out the secret ... Durafix is a great product ... I have been using it to repair automotive parts like intake manifolds and such. The bes part is all you need is a propane torch to do it, just make sure there isnt that much wind blowing....P S|
|when you have to repair some Aluminium irrigation pipes out in the middle of a padock with no power for miles and you can't move the pipe.....boy oh boy, this stuff is the "ants pants"! Gas burner, wire brush, Durafix, 10 minuites later and you are out of the mud and cow poo....Hily|
|I went ahead and bought more than I really needed so I had enough to practice with. It did work like in the video, I have used it to repair a boat prop and make some aluminum brackets by joining pieces together, fixed a cracked aluminum lawn mower deck, even fixed a intake manifold that had a chunk missing. ....Dave|
|Satisfied with the Durafix stuff. Took about one stick of the stuff and turned out to be very strong. vigorously shook the completed rig by the pipe, pulled and twisted on the flange and it held strong.|
|I've used this product for aluminum repairs for years. I've never used it on a Toon pontoon boat tube. I did repair the aluminum top lid on a gas grill that was broken into 3 pieces when it got blown over by the wind. That was 4 years ago & it's still in use and even with heating & cooling has not cracked in the repaired area's....Ron|
|First try with Durafix
Photos: 5 - 3 MB Nov 20, 2007|
Being gutted about the prices of TIG welders I found this way of, basically, soldering aluminium. This photo album contains my first test and probably some further tests too. (Sorry about the pic-quality, my phone is good, but not for detailed pics.)
I used DuraFix aluminum welding rods to weld together a big job. I am refurbishing my 16' X 8' pontoon boat and I am making my own railing out
of 1" square aluminum tubes.|
You guessed it, I used DuraFix to weld the cuts together and it is wonderful. However, I did have trouble with it at first, I had followed all the steps as directed in the instructions and I still could not get the rods to flow as they should. It was then that I sent an email to DuraFix and explained to them what I was doing and the problem that I was having.
I was very surprised not only to get a response but to get one by phone at work. I received a call from Randall Weeks and he advised me to use the "Bernz-O-Matic" propane torch and to hold the tip of the torch approximately 1.5 inches from the surface of the tubes and it worked. It worked just as Randall had said it would and I want everyone to know that it DOES WORK.
| It is good stuff. A friend had some and that is how I found out about it.|
The trickiest thing about using it is remembering to heat the surface, not the rod (just like soldering) or you'll waste it (drip....puddle). Once you figure out the heat (distance to hold the torch away from surface to get the best melt/flow temp) it really is easy. It's kind of like a combination of welding and soldering....Randy
|A lot of the boat owners on a pontoon forum that I am a member of have had a lot of luck using the durafix rods. Their website seems to have pretty complete instructions in the use of them too. Always a plus in my book....Thomas|
|That durafix definitely works great. Its tough as nails and easy to use. I've used it on my 14 footer and it was all I needed....Danny|
|I used the DuraFix aluminum welding rods for the first time and it works very well just using a hand torch.|
|Some time ago, Vern Haller posted results he had in using an aluminum brazing rod.|
Recently I was pointed to a rod called "Dura-Fix"
This had been written up in Practical Sailor and other boating rags.
I tried it today and am amazed at how easy it works and how strong the joint is (their web site gives some impressive strength stats). As a test, I butt joined 2 pieces of 3/16" alu (4 " wide)... Then I tried twisting this test piece and could not break the joint... I did another sample and tried bending the piece 1/8" below the joint... The piece bent but the joint held.
I gave a stick to the welder in our yard and, after trying it, he is **extremely** impressed. The job I had in mind for the product was in making up a mast step for the E27... The original had to be hacked around to get it out of the mast originally (humungous corrosion problem)... Using 1/4" alu plate as the base, and 3/16" plate (suitably formed to the mast profile) as the vertical flange I brazed the 2 pieces together and now have a super mast step.I used a propane torch as the heat source and the job took me 5 minutes at most... Wonderfully formed fillet on both sides of the flange, look great. I can thoroughly recommend this product....BC
|The front aluminum panel was chock full of holes I did not need and I had to fill them in with an aluminum alloy sold under the name Durafix. This alloy has a melting point of 732 F If you are trying to save a few bucks and have a hot torch, this stuff works excellent for filling in holes, welding aluminum and other stuff. Try it out sometime!....Jon|
If you have access to a small oxy torch, you can build your case out of thin aluminum. I used a product called "durafix" Its a
zinc-based rod that allows you to braze together non-ferrus metals of any sort. |
I found it very easy to work with, assuming you clean all the joints with a small stainless steel brush. www.durafix.com is a good source for the welding rod.
Problem : How can I fix a rupture in small diameter aluminum tubing.|
Solution : Aluminum welding rods are good for this kind of repair. It has no drip through, which is essential for small diameter tubes, and you can repair it with a hand held torch instead of a welding machine. For more information see Durafix
Its great stuff, nice and fast, and doesn't leave a rotten stink in the room (don't use the product in your living room however).|
All ya need is a stable surface, a $20 propane torch, and a pair of shop goggles. www.durafix.com....Frederic B.
|Some genius decided to defrost a fridge with a hammer and chisel to prove it could be done in under 30 seconds. Well, technically it was. Anyhoo, durafix - the alloy solder - works f*****g great. It was re-gassed with new oil and gas. Fridge works better than before, and far better than when I made it spring a leak....John MK.|
|Yes the rods are similar to technaweld, although $50 cheaper (less than 1/2 price) per full kit. It is an amazing product. As with anything of a DIY nature, the more proficient the user the better the result. Being a very bad welder, I have found it easy to make an easy weld, so anyone with some ability can make a good job of small repairs....Ian K.|
|Thanks to all the folks at Durafix. I repaired my 1975 Starcraft alumineum boat. I had 11 leaks 0 leaks now. The whole trick is do it twice. The first time did not stop leaks. I reheated each leak and rubbed each with stainless brush.I guess it is a matter of tinning fine cracks and loose rivets. My regards again to Durafix....Dave Hafner|
|It's absolutely wonderful! It really does work very well. You can actually repair aluminum articles without flux and without very high heat. You just heat the broken piece with a propane torch, then after it's beyond the melting point of the rod, you rub the article with the rod, and the aluminum alloy will fill the gap in the broken piece. Great stuf!....Mike|
I tried durafix on the outside the jet mounting just under the flame collecotor (fixed a crack in the pipe). It holds quite well.|
After approx 3 years of having welded those cracks on the 8r clones pipes/mountings the welds have yet to fail.
|If it is cracked in an auminum location, Durafix might be an option. I have used this stuff over the past 10 years and it really works....C. Eickson|
I am sure several of you have seen the guys at the boat show weldiing aluminum with a durafix rod and a propane torch. and wondered if this stuff could be handy for "in the field" and remote repairs: (ie: where there is no tig )
I bought a half pound at the miami boat show many years ago and have experimented with the stuff only a few times.
The first time I had an opportunity to try a repair "in the field" was during a busy time in the charter business. I had discovered a small crack on our boarding ladder. Not a serious crack but my first candidate for durfafix repair!
Our aluminum dive ladder was quite substaintial maybe 10' overall length, it was quite windy on deck and my first experiment was with my
I dug around in my shed and found a generic propane bottle type torch nozzel, got a bottle of propane. And brought it to the boat The ladder was
large and cumbersome and I might have been more successfull if I could have gotten the ladder out of the wind and into a sheltered environment but even with
the propane torch I was unable to create a fix
After the sunset trip I was able to run to scottys hardware and get a bottle of mapp (sp?) gas to experiment with . Even with Mapp gas I just could not get the components hot enough in a windy open environment to get the durafix rod to flow. ---> end experiment & took the ladder to a welding shop. :-( ******
The next experiment:
The job was replacing an engine bed n a 32 luhrs : to pull the port engine of a 32 luhrs required pulling the 200 gallon aluminum fuel tank to access
the stb engine mounts of the port engine. after draining the diesel and pulling the tank I found severe pitting on one corner of the tanks bottom -but no
holes... Maybe durafix could be used as filler??
It filled the pitted area niceley & saved my client the hassel of transporting the large tank to a welding shop.
That was early 1999 and the tank is still in service.
1999 ... I was taking mig & tig welding classes and learning about welding aluminum, maybe my inexperience had foiled my first attempts with the
ladder, maybe I just was not _patient_ enough to get the ladder hot enough and maybe I did not realize how fast the heat quickly dissipated from the aluminum
tubing being cooled by the wind in the unsheltered environment.
which brings us to the year 2001. Now I can weld.
I have a mig, a tig and an oxy-acetylene torch. the aluminum transfer case on a neighbors Harleydavidson had broken two of the mounting ears off. creating a need for a repair similar to the one shown of the carb here: http://www.durafix.com
I used the tig to re-attach the ears, unlike the carb shown which is rather robust, the Harley transfer case flares from the thick aluminum ears to a thinner aluminum body and required care not to distort or burn through the thinner area. Once I had the ears tacked I tried to fill (and grind and fill) with the tig to build up the flare from thin to thick but each time I risked burning through the thin stuff and decided to quit while I was ahead rather than risk distorting or damaging the case
I wondered if the durafix might help build up the flare around the ears, this time I was able to use my oxy-actetelyn and was able to get it hot enough without risking burnthrough to get the durafix to flow nicely !! :-)
yes _do_ brush your repair item with a stainless brush to remove oxides, also clean the durafix of oxides as the oxides have a higher melting temperature.
There were a couple of booths at the Dania Marine Flea market selling the stuff and the guys at the booths demonstrate the stuff making it look easy ! (hey thats their job!) take a carefull look next time you see one of these demonstrations at the size of the propane torch tip they are demonstrating with --I thought it looked a size or two larger than the _"generic"_ propane torch I had first used in my ladder repair attempts.
if you have tried durafix and had less than satisfactory results keep in mind the demonstrators at the show may have used a larger propane torch tip capable of heating a spot quicker than the generic propane tip in your shed and they probably picked a (thin) material to demostrate with (cherry picked repair)
so be patient it may take _several_ minutes to heat the workpiece enough to get the durfix to flow. but bottom line, _yes_ the stuff works and could be very handy should you require a repair in some remote area should you be cruising. but just don't buy some and toss it in your cruising spares _ experiment with it_ !
Taken verbatim from: http://www.angelfire.com/fl/cruisingkeywest/durafix.html
|I've used it to repair a neighbor's aluminum jon. Easy to use, no sparks, no welding lenses. A package of rods provides years of repairs. Durafix is some good stuff for aluminum. I had some aluminum threads that were toast in a housing. Filled the hole with durafix, let cool, then retapped. I was a little hesitant at first but it worked like a charm and like others, I did not have the means to weld conventionally. It should work well especially if there is no pressure involved. Mine was on a pressure washer pump and it still holds up to this day...|
|Aluminum Brazing: An excellent method for joining aluminum to aluminum or to copper or brass is to use the modern fluxless aluminum brazing method. I have used this method successfully for brazing the copper tabs to the aluminum driven elements of the M2 antenna. These joints are found inside the connector block. As supplied on my 2M5WL antennas, the copper tab is swedged into a slit in the end of each driven element dipole half so that a regular tin-lead solder joint can be made on the copper to fasten coax connectors to the elements. The problem is that this particular joint is a candidate for corrosion and cathiodic cell development if moisture ever gets to it, and this has happened to more than one of my antennas. Aluminum brazing prevents this (you will need to remove the element from the block to do the brazing). W5UN has no affiliation with this vendor, but has used their rods with very good success. You will need a propane or mapp gas torch for this procedure.. take a look at http://durafix.com|
Posted by Tom from Northern Ontario:|
I took an old 15' aluminum boat on as a project, replacing over 100 rivets and reseting the rest, there were 2 holes or tears about 1/2" to 3/4" long caused by the flexing of the floor against the corners of the 2 quarter seats in the stern...for these I used 'Dura Fix' and it has stood up for a couple of years with no problem and seems harder than the aluminum. I bought my rods at a sportsman show after watching one of those info-mercial type demo's... but it does work.
Dura fix works well on an aluminum hull for the average Joe with a propane torch if he follows the instructions of cleaning the area well with a stainless steel wire brush, then heating the area while rubbing the rod on it so that heat from the base material melts it (not your torch), being careful not to melt the aluminum in the meantime. Any thicker aluminum will require a hotter torch because aluminum will dissipate heat away before it gets hot enough to melt the rod, I've heard that its not an easy job repairing the likes of a prop with it unless one has a lot more heat available, its not as easy as they say.
I took a dura fix rod to work to show some of our welders (like the info-mercial I watched)and did the old trick of punching a 1/4" hole in the bottom of an aluminum beer can, I was using a large cutting torch and accidently blew the hole out to about 1/2" but the dura fix repaired even this hole and we pounded the heck out of the weld after with a chipping hammer but it held.
|To avoid nasty, large welding beads, I used my oxy/acl jewlers torch and this product here: http://www.durafix.com which is neat stuff, its great for "soldering" anything non-ferrous, like aluminum, brass, copper, etc. I've used it for years fixing aluminum radiators rather than replacing them, for example. Also soldered aluminum gear covers, aluminum water pumps, etc. Works well on thin material too, flows nicely....F. B.|
One example is DuraFix. Braze each rod onto the "hub" piece of .625" tubing, and braze (carefully) the wire onto the tip of each spoke. We found that
the tricks to using this technique successfully were:|
1) Clean the rod and tubing carefully with the stainless wire brush. Take your time, and do it just before you are going to do the brazing, not a day or two before.
2) Be very careful to heat the work, and then rub or scratch the brazing rod against the work, rather than heating the rod. Do it using the same technique you would use to solder a good joint. You wouldn’t heat the solder, now would you? If you heat the brazing rod with the torch, it will melt, but it won’t stick to the work. You must scratch it against the heated work to get a good joint....Dan
|Used that [Durafix] to repair a broken intake manifold for my Casal. There are no NOS parts , so that was the alternative. Great stuff, just machine flat after brazing with a propane torch....John|
|Looks too good to be true but it really is easy to use and the tin can hole patch is the first thing I did as soon as I got the product and it really is that easy...At first I was VERY sceptical but the product came through... The 240 rivets and a couple holes took about 4 hours to do with 2 guys working non stop....Bulldog|
For those wanting info on aluminum welding here it is, this is the site with the product I use:
Go down the page a little and you will see full instructions. I personally think this is the best kept secret in scale modeling....Luke
Worked great on an old jon boat that I had. It took a handheld torch, heated up the surface and let the rods met in. It works just like soldering
but a much much harder patch when finished.|
It's ad [durafix] states that the finished patch is stronger than the parent metal. I found that to be true. It's real easy to work with....Seaman
Use the durafix, it is stronger than aluminium and is easy to use, it will take to cast alloy. Follow the instructions exactly and remember that
cleanliness is the key to this stuff bonding properly. Durafix won't strip any sooner than aluminium. |
You don't need welding equipment, only propane, but you do need the right tip to get the heat where you need it. Also an understanding of where the hottest part of the flame is, just at the tip of the bright blue cone of flame in the middle of the big flame. I have succesfuly used this stuff on the head of my car's engine, and was able to fill the stripped hole and drill/tap a new thread into the durafix. The hole was for the ohc and needed to be torqued down to 30 pounds, is still working 2 years on from the repair....Lark
|There's a product called Durafix which is a welding rod for aluminum that permits the weld to be be carried out with a propane torch. I have welded quite a bit with it and it is very durable, strong and easy to use....K. I.|
|Aloha, There is a product called Durafix, I used it to repair some broken parts (serious and major), on a fishing boat. It is really amazing stuff. Their web site is, http://durafix.com. You will like this product and you can use a torch. Have fun! ....Christian G.|
|The first step was to reweld the corners (of the aluminum window frame) with aluminum alloy rod. It is a process that takes time to learn. A good source of the material is Durafix....VintageAirstream.com|
|I just use a lincoln 125 arc welder, for a stick welder its all yer gonna need and i also use a product called "durafix" for my aluminum repairs,,,it works really well....Unknown Landscaper|
|On my previous bow (Hoyt MT Sport), the bracket was constantly moving on me no matter how much I tightened it down. To remedy, I marked where the screw holes would be, and filled the channel on the bracket with Dura Fix then drilled out the two holes. Perfect fix....hvhunter|
|For home uses, I've also had success with Durafix rods, very easy to use & a good strong bond....Computer Builder|
|fixed a hole in my aluminum canoe using Dura fix. If you can use a propane torch it is real easy to use and it worked great and a lot cheaper than getting someone to weld it....Natan|